Erpha Ahdayani

Fabrics for my baby

2011-12-04T14:29:00.002+08:00

I saw these beautiful panels by Michael Miller some time ago, love them so much but didn't buy them until I'm pregnant of a baby girl... :-) I'm so lucky as D'amani Cotton was willing to help me to get them.

This is my interpretation of what my baby should have for her bedding ~ just simple white cotton sheet with little embroidery rather than those loud colours and vivid motifs...

My hubby will custom make her mattress and pillows while I'll do the sewing. As for her Fairies baby quilt, I'll leave to Anita to make one for her :-)

And not forgetting something special for my beloved son, Alif Harriz, also a Fairies quilt in Periwinkle to match with his baby sister... :-) He just can't wait to see her! :-)

I hope it will be in time for me to make all her necessities. December is the last month for me to finish all orders by my dear customers. I just want to create something beautiful for her with peace of mind without having to worry about pending orders. And to show my syukur to Allah, I'll be making not only for her; I've planned to give my handmade away to relatives, close friends and the needy.

May God bless us all. Thank you Allah for answering my prayer (it was such a short notice, but you've answered me so promptly!).

Passion for Silkstone

2011-10-01T09:29:00.000+08:00

My little sis spent a week with me and managed to shoot quite a few pics of my Silkstone Barbie doll. Since I bought her, I haven't had any chance to make her any dresses so she had to borrow some from my other Barbies. Then, my sis was so excited she decided to make clothes for her!

Handsewn by my sis, Farah

All beautiful shots taken by Farah Othman.

Salam Aidilfitri

2011-09-02T11:55:00.000+08:00

Inilah sebahagian dari projek Sulam Cabut Sarawak yang sempat diabadikan di sini...

Dear Valued Customer,

2011-06-20T17:32:00.004+08:00

My puan, cik puan Erpha Ahdayani Othman is so busy with your Raya Orders. So forgive her if she couldn't update her blog and please don't blame her if her blog is soon to be 'bersawang'. :-)

This is me, Silkstone Barbie reporting exclusively for my puan. Thank you and have a nice day! :-)

Couple Sulam Cabut

2011-05-30T07:51:00.000+08:00

Assalam...

I made this for a loving couple who celebrate their anniversary in May...

Mdm M says she came to know about Sulam Cabut few years ago when her husband was posted in Sarawak for the first time. Now, still living in Sarawak, they have collected quite a few patterns embellished on their traditional Baju Kurungs and Baju Melayu and they just love this needle art dearly.

Happy Anniversary! May happiness and love be with you both! :-)

At the moment, I'm occupied with Raya orders but I'll try my best to post more from time to time, next will be Sulam Cabut on Baju Kurung Pesak Gantung, another couple Sulam Cabut and more! :-)

Baju Melayu Kanak-kanak Bersulam Cabut

2011-05-10T09:26:00.000+08:00

Dear all...

This is yet another long-delayed Baju Melayu for my son, finally done! :-)

Fullview. I skipped the Sulam on the pockets

Simple neckline finishing echoing the Sulam

The sleeves


Alif chan. :-) Inventing a 'phone' using a can, just before Iqra' lesson

When you have an almost 7 year-old boy, you'll tend to find all your kitchen supplies / groceries missing. There's one time when I found out my jar of cooking oil layered with water underneath, reason being, he just wanted to know which is lighter! All this stuff with lemon and bicarbonate powder etc... And with wooden crane lifting the keys... Anyway, I still love him!

Till then, have a great day! :-)

Cowboy Shirt for Alif Harriz

2011-04-10T15:16:00.000+08:00

Assalam...

I made this cowboy shirt right after returning from a three-day Promosi Jualan MARA in Miri. Sewing is a great therapy for my stressful mind and my tired body. Anyway, it's been a great experience to meet and to educate people what smocking is all about :-).

Back to the shirt, it was supposed to be a picture-smocked shirt with pictures of horses on it's yoke and back. Material I used is US cotton plain blue and I used the red checker cotton I bought from Crafty Buddy .

It was supposed to be a long-sleeved shirt but alas! This is size 4 (abandoned for so long, can you believe this?!) Since Alif Harriz (turns 7 this year) is a small (but tall) young boy, so hubby suggested short sleeves. The right solution indeed! :-)

This is the first time I make a boy shirt and I plan to make another one for him using the same pattern but this time will use denim and size 6.

His comment? "Well done Mama!"

Baju Kurung Sulam Cabut untuk Cik Siti

2011-04-05T07:44:00.000+08:00

Assalam...

Apa khabar pembaca blog semua? Harapnya sihat2 lah yea... Kali ni Erpha nak kongsikan tempahan dari Cik Siti dari Seremban. Rasa-rasanya ramai customer Erpha yang namanya bermula dari Siti, dan Cik Siti yang ni peramah lagi baik hati orangnya, :-).

Material pilihan memang sangat sesuai untuk sulaman cabut sarawak ni, senang je nak handle, alhamdulillah... Thanks yea Siti! :-).

Baju 1: Baju Kurung bersulam Cabut Bunga Tanjung/Pucuk Rebung.
Kain polos dipadankan dengan kain corak zigzag.

2. Baju Kurung bersulam Cabut Kipas

Kain polos dipadankan dengan kain rona gelap corak 'paisley', cantik sangat.

Setakat ni je dulu k... Akan datang, Erpha akan share Baju Melayu dan Baju Kurung sedondon yang juga bersulam Cabut Sarawak ni.

p/s: Berangan-angan nak cipta design baru, tapi buat masa ni memang sangat sibuk, mudah-mudahan impian menjadi kenyataan...

Baju Kurung Cotton

2011-04-04T13:24:00.000+08:00

Assalam...

Selain daripada tempahan Sulam Cabut dan Smocking, Erpha memang menerima tempahan baju kurung tapi kebetulan pula dalam minggu yang sama, Erpha kena menyiapkan baju kurung, yang semuanya dari fabrik kain kapas! Seronok sebab kain kapas ni senang nak handle semasa memotong dan jahit :-)

Baju Kurung 1:

Sempat buat kemasan leher

Baju kurung cotton yang comel! :-)

Baju Kurung 2:

Bunga-bunga kecil warna pink! :-)

Baju kurung dengan padanan kain pink polos

Baju Kurung 3:

Yang ni dipadankan dengan skirt khaki :-)

Simple finishing

Baju Kurung 4:

Yang bunga2 kuning ni dipadankan dengan kain A-line warna krim :-)

Yang simple ni untuk saya! :-)

Baju Kurung 5:

Yang ni baju Kurung polkadot untuk si cilik! :-)

Kemasan leher dengan warna sedondon

Baju Kurung 6:

Baju kurung cotton dengan corak yang sangat comel! :-)

Perincian piping pada lubang leher

Setakat ni dulu yang sempat saya uploadkan... nantikan post Sulam Cabut untuk cik Siti dari Seremban. :-) Terima kasih saya ucapkan kepada rakan2 blogger yang sentiasa menyokong dan juga kepada pelanggan2 saya yang rata-ratanya sangat kreatif dan understanding :-)

Bye!

Knitted Shirt for My Son ~ Alif Harriz

2011-03-22T09:26:00.000+08:00

Assalam...

This is a superb handknitted raglan shirt done by my very talented bloggerfriend, Rozi Rahman :-) Let's see Alif wearing it!

~ About Alif ~
Alif Harriz is a clever boy
who also loves all his toys
He's loved by all girls and friends
and nicknamed 'buah' by his parents
Sometimes he can be so naughty
Always he's such a sweety... :-)
Play and study he'd always do
with papa, mama and cat brother Dodo
and at night before bed he'd always pray
May papa, mama and Dodo always stay! :-)

This is behind the scene; when Dodo just wish he had a new shirt too!

Till then, bye! :-)

Handbound Book For Me! :-)

2011-03-17T10:06:00.000+08:00

Assalam...

I was so excited when I received this specially custom made handbound sketching book this week! :-) Well, this is one of the ways (other than Silkstone Barbie) how I reward myself to all my passion with smocking, sewing and embroidery.

As Ahmad, the designer of this wonderful book is so talented in papercraft work. She made this based on my request; the colours I want, the quilling and all. Visit her blog

and you will find all beautiful quilling work which I wish I could learn.

These handcrafted paper roses look big here but in reality they are so tiny, so intricate and meticulously done. The book is neatly completed and bound. Now I can sketch my smocking dresses with style... :-)

Next time, I will feature here the knitted raglan shirt specially for my only child, Alif Harriz, also done by blogger friend, the talented Rozi.

Till we meet again, bye! :-)

Salam Pembuka Bicara 2011

2011-01-09T19:19:00.000+08:00

Akhirnya, sempat jugak update blog ni. Fuh, memang agak sibuk sejak kebelakangan ini dan ditambah lagi dengan kehilangan orang yang tersayang. :-(

Di sini Erpha nak kongsikan lagi beberapa projek Sulam Cabut Sarawak yang dah siap..

Baju Melayu Bersulam Cabut ni Erpha buat khas untuk bakal pengantin yang akan melangsungkan perkahwinannya tak lama lagi... Pemilihan warna, putih dan gold dari fabrik Bridal Satin. Yang putih dia nak Cabut Fadly dan yang warna gold tu Cabut Pucuk Rebung/Bunga Tanjung. Jom cuci mata.

Kepada sweet N, selamat Pengantin Baru dan selamat menempuh alam rumahtangga yang bakal menjelang. :-)

Hari tu Erpha ada mention yang Erpha akan kongsikan Sulam Cabut yang baru. Sebenarnya client Erpha ni bagi sample bajunya kat Erpha and suruh Erpha ikut sulaman tu. Katanya, anaknya memang gemarkan pattern tu tapi sekarang baju tu dah tak muat lagi dah, mana taknya, baju masa dia kecik2 dulu. :-) So, Erpha tolong la buatkan.

Sulaman ni secara asasnya seperti Sulam Cabut Pagar, cuma coraknya diubah sedikit, seperti bentuk piramid. So, Erpha panggil je Sulam Cabut Piramid. Kalau sesiapa yang tau nama sebenar sulam ni, boleh la bagi tau Erpha k?

Sulam ni nampak lebih ringkas daripada pattern sulam cabut yang lain tapi memang mengambil masa untuk menyiapkannya sebab Erpha kena 'anyam' urat benang tu dan lebih mencabar lagi bila jenis kain tebal (tabik spring dengan orang lama). Walaupun sukar, Erpha tak buat satu, tapi dua pasang baju bersulam Cabut Piramid nih... :-)

Baju biru ni, aunty dia yang punya...

Memang ramai yang sukakan kesan dramatik tapi tak kurang juga yang sukakan monochrome macam Cik puan S kita. Nampak lebih natural bila blend dengan fabrik tu, lebih bersahaja dan klasik.

Dah puas menjamu mata, diharap blog Erpha yang sederhana ni dapat memberikan inspirasi kepada semua. Semoga tahun 2011 ni memberikan lebih makna kepada kehidupan kita semua dan sampai jumpa lagi... Wassalam...

Sulam Cabut Updates

2010-10-26T10:58:00.000+08:00

Salam semua...

Rasanya dah agak lama tak blogging... maklum saja Erpha buat masa ni masih lagi sibuk menyiapkan tempahan baju-baju pelanggan... Tapi Erpha suka juga nak kongsikan projek yang dah siap... yang lain belum sempat lagi nak ambik gambar... harap pembaca tak jemu berkunjung ke blog Erpha yang seadanya ini... :)

Warna dark purple tu kontras dengan benang sulam yang Erpha gunakan tapi matching dengan kain, nampak dramatik kan?

Untuk projek yang akan datang, Erpha akan ketengahkan sejenis sulam Cabut yang belum pernah lagi Erpha kongsikan di dalam blog ni...

Sampai jumpa lagi... :)

Pyjamas, Baju Melayu and a Six-year-old Boy: Alif Harriz

2010-10-09T10:08:00.001+08:00

Salam to all...

This post is dedicated to my son, Alif Harriz who celebrates his 6th birthday this week...

Six years back, the first clothes he wore when he was born was made by his mama and since then, Alif receives more handmades from mama... It's trial and error but Alif still wear it happily! :)

Even these tiny Baju Melayu with hand-embroidered bugs and sulam Cabut on the sleeves.

Each pair will always be personalised with unique embroidery. Some are inspired by his favourite teddybear ~ Abang Howard. And when he grow older, he requested his favourite warrior ~ Ultraman Cosmos!!!

And yesterday, mama received a package from May May Shop and let's see what's inside...

Whoa! So kawaii! Surely mama will make another pyjamas for him! Alif just loves vehicles! Thanks May! There's little gifts for me too! :)

Happy Birthday son! :)

Nice Photos! :)

2010-10-09T09:17:00.001+08:00

Happy weekends to all...

Here are some photos of my client that we can share together. Thanks to the very talented photographer, Mr. Muhammad for tagging me some of the beautiful photos. For more photos you may check his blog out here

Nice! :)

Selamat Pengantin Baru.. Semoga Bahagia ke Akhir Hayat... Amin.

Sulam Cabut Raya

2010-09-14T10:25:00.000+08:00

Salam Lebaran kepada semua pembaca...

Hari ni dah Raya ke-5... Rasa-rasanya Erpha dah kena mula kerja balik.. Tapi sebelum tu jom tengok antara baju-baju bersulam Cabut yang sempat Erpha ambik gambar.. :-)

Sulam Cabut 1:
Sulam Cabut Kipas kali ni disulam untuk dipakai pada majlis akad nikah pada Syawal ini... Alhamdulillah, regular customer Erpha yang sangat sweet dan baik hati ni akhirnya telah mengakhirkan zaman bujangnya setelah bertemu jodoh dengan jejaka pilihan hati.

Material yang digunakan ialah satin berkilat warna 'champagne'. Agak mencabar juga kerana selain berkilat, memang agak sukar mencari padanan warna 'champagne'. Nasib menyebelahi kerana kain ni tak memeri so Erpha on je.

Perincian manik dan labuci pada kain renda pengantin perempuan untuk dipadankan dengan Baju Melayu.

Pengantin lelaki gemarkan warna monochrome yang nampak 'natural' tapi sedikit menyerlah namun tak berlebih sangat. Cam mane tu ek? :-)

Sulam Cabut 2:
Yang ni Sulam Cabut Fadly...

Material ni berwarna merah cili.

Sulam Cabut Fadly ni Erpha reka khas untuk Baju Melayu je. Petak-petak yang lebih kecil digunakan agar tidak nampak janggal pada kocek Baju Melayu.

Cuba bandingkan perbezaan jenis Cabut yang digunakan pada warna fabrik yang sama: :-)

Berbeza dengan Cabut Fadly tadi, Erpha gunakan benang berwarna kontras pula untuk Cabut Kipas ni. View penuh pada post Pantun Raya.

Rasanya ni je yang sempat Erpha kongsikan. Masih ada lagi yang sedang dalam proses dan InsyaAllah kita akan bertemu lagi..

Salam sayang.

Pantun Raya

2010-09-09T11:05:00.000+08:00

Salam semua...

Di pagi Raya kacak bergaya

BerCabut Kipas merah temanya

Aidilfitri kini menjelang tiba

terimalah ucapan Selamat Hari Raya

Gaya sedondon bereben merah

Melawat nenek jangan dilupakan

Hari Raya disambut meriah

Salah dan silap harap dimaafkan

Khas buat pembaca blog dan pelanggan Erpha, di sini saya ingin mengambil kesempatan menghulurkan sepuluh jari, memohon maaf sekiranya ada salah dan silap. Terima lah ucapan Selamat Hari Raya dari Erpha sekeluarga.

Untuk peminat seni sulam cabut, nantikan post Erpha selepas raya k... :) Selamat Hari Raya!

What a Mess!

2010-08-01T07:56:00.002+08:00

Gotta clear it up!

That's more like it! :)

p/s: don't hate me, i'm just a mama who missed all her toys!

Note: Closet, couch and hangers are DIYs by dear hubby. They are six years old now. Old.

Sulam Cabut Lagi...

2010-07-30T11:05:00.002+08:00

Salam pagi Jumaat untuk semua...

Kali ni sekali lagi Erpha nak share satu lagi hasil kerja tangan Erpha, khas untuk client Erpha yang sorang ni.. Walaupun belum pernah lagi bertemu muka, melalui SMS dan cara dia bercakap Erpha tau dia ni memang sweet dan baik budi bahasa orangnya.

Pada awalnya dia nak Erpha buatkan sulam Cabut Fadly untuk baju kurungnya, tapi rasanya kurang sesuai kerana sulam cabut Fadly (adaptasi dari Sulam Bunga Tanjung/Pucuk Rebung) hanya sesuai untuk baju Melayu saja... so, Erpha gunakan pattern yang sesuai untuk Baju Kurung, iaitu Bunga Tanjung/Pucuk Rebung.

Kain yang digunakan ialah kain polos berwarna 'fuchsia', dari kain satin saluna, memang sesuai kerana urat kainnya yang sederhana padat... Faktor jenis kain memainkan peranan yang penting contohnya kain ni, hasil sulaman akan nampak timbul.

Nampak tak lelubang di antara benang? :-)

Kain polos fuchsia ni dipadankan dengan kain chiffon bermotifkan corak abstrak. Erpha gunakan benang sulam yang senada dengan 'swirl' pada kain iaitu, purple.

Baju Kurung bersulam Cabut ~ Full view

Benang yang digunakan ialah DMC Perle warna purple bercampur putih (monochromatic).

Hasil sulaman pada lengan dan kaki baju

Beginilah rupanya hujung lengan Baju Kurung yang diberikan perincian sulam Cabut.

Hujung lengan

Pada kaki baju

Dan pernah tak tengok sulam Cabut ni dalam corak dua tingkat? Erpha tunjukkan samplenya k... Untuk corak dua tingkat ni biasanya sesuai untuk disulam pada Baju Kurung dan mengambil masa lebih lama dari yang corak yang biasa... :)

Sulam Cabut Bunga Tanjung/Pucuk Rebung Double Layer

Rasanya itu saja yang sempat Erpha kongsikan bersama kali ni. Di sini Erpha ingin mengambil kesempatan untuk berterima kasih dengan semua pembaca blog kerana sudi menjenguk blog Erpha. Kepada client Erpha, terima kasih kerana masih meminati warisan zaman silam yang unik ni. Harap akan berkekalan untuk tatapan generasi yang akan datang.

Kepada rakan2 yang pernah bertanyakan soalan dan mengusulkan untuk diadakan tutorial, Erpha dah cuba, namun Erpha memohon maaf banyak2 kerana memang sukar untuk membuat tutorial secara terperinci berkenaan sulam Cabut ni melainkan secara langsung. Apapun, Erpha bersedia untuk menjawab apa saja soalan berkaitan dengan sulam Cabut Sarawak.

Jumpa lagi dan selamat berkraf! :)

Sulam Cabut Kipas

2010-07-16T09:31:00.000+08:00

Salam kepada semua pembaca blog Erpha yang tak seberapa ni... minggu ni macam biasa jadual Erpha memang dah pack dengan baju2 Raya yang nak dijahit. Selain daripada tu Erpha memang sibuk juga dengan tempahan Sulam Cabut dan smocking.

Mungkin ada pembaca yang tertanya-tanya bagaimana Erpha aturkan jadual jahitan Erpha... Erpha selalu kalau menjahit dengan mesin ni waktu siang hari je, hari bekerja menjahit, hujung minggu pula cuma boleh potong kain (time untuk family). Malam Erpha tumpukan kepada jahitan yang melibatkan sulaman tangan seperti smocking dan sulam cabut. Waktu sibuk2 begini, Erpha belum pernah lagi menjahit sampai jauh2 malam (alhamdulillah) sebab kesihatan pun kena jaga, time ni lah yang paling kritikal sebab kalau dah jatuh sakit kena ambik masa nak sembuh semula...

ok... ni ada beberapa keping gambar sulaman cabut kipas yang sempat Erpha ambik... Baju ni adalah khas untuk anak perempuan kesayangan client Erpha. Dengar kata, anaknya amat meminati seni sulaman cabut ni...

Baju kurung ni plain maroon dan Erpha gunakan warna benang yang senada dengan warna kain batik corak pua kumbu, merah bata.

Erpha buatkan sekali kemasan di keliling leher...

Sambil2 tu Erpha sempat buat simple beading kat lengan baju ni...

Minggu ni Erpha cuba siapkan sulam cabut Pucuk Rebung pula... nanti kalau sempat Erpha akan uploadkan gambar k...

Salam sayang...

Cross Stitch Projects

2010-07-11T12:19:00.002+08:00

Salam...

I received these this week:

1) Cozy Sewing Room cross stitch by Rozmaria

I've kept this for some time yet didn't have time to do, so I've asked my dear sister-in-law Rozmaria to do the cross stitch work for me ~ not bad for a first timer. It's actually a stamped cross stitch but I decided to use Aida cloth instead of the muslin cloth which comes together with this set. After Raya, I would just have to complete the rest i.e the backstitches, satin stitches, french knots etc. I plan to hang this in my sewing room... :))))

2) Mama Alif cross stitch chart by Yati

And this is the chart of my photo with my little buah, Alif Harriz. I ordered this from Yati. It's so comprehensive and the chart is very easy to understand! Good work Yati! I was totally thrilled and couldn't wait to do this!

Dodo did his part in unpacking things (Alif was at school). He was standing by and peeping... :)

As happy as I was, this week some clients were happy too as they have received their Smocking orders and Sulam Cabut orders.

Next week, I'll be even happier when my first ever Silky Barbie arrives... whoaaaa!!!!yeaa!!! yahoooo!!!!!

I'll upload the photos of my recent Sulam Cabut Kipas next week... till then, happy Sunday to all!!!

Dapat Award! :-)))

2010-07-09T06:22:00.000+08:00

Seronoknya dapat award ni, cantek, warna pink lagi. Thanks Gaban ! :)

Dengan penuh ikhlas nya Erpha nak bagi Award ni dengan Kak Pah pulak... Kak Pah, cuba baca kat award tu... it's you who deserves this award! :)

Thanks!

Fact about Gaban:

Dia kan Gaban... perwira yang selalu membantu orang dalam kesusahan... :-))

Facts about me and my hobbies:

- I love simple things in life.

- I run my business (hobbies actually) from home for almost 6 years now, since Alif Harriz was born.

Kepada blogreader, buat masa ni Erpha sedang menyiapkan tempahan sulam cabut dan smocking. Nanti bila dah siap Erpha akan letakkan dalam blog ni k...

Terima kasih daun keladi, lain kali singgah la lagi...

Pelanggan yang Dihormati...

2010-06-13T07:50:00.000+08:00

Salam...

Di sini saya nak mengumumkan bahawa semua tempahan (sulam cabut, manik, pakaian dll) untuk Hari Raya adalah ditutup. Jadi saya memohon maaf kepada pelanggan yang tidak dapat saya terima tempahannya. Saya berterima kasih kepada pelanggan yang memahami situasi saya dan kepada pelanggan yang marah2 dan merajuk tu, harap datang lagi lain kali dan jangan marah lama sangat, k? :)

Buat masa ni saya hanya menerima tempahan untuk selepas Raya. Raya Haji kan tak lama lagi... Terima kasih banyak lah di atas sokongan anda semua..

Blaus Berlengan Belon untuk Mak Usu

2010-06-07T08:17:00.002+08:00

Happy morning...

It's raining heavily outside and this just reminds me the day I bought my first ever A - Z of Smocking book. The book is superb with beautiful illustrations and comprehensive guide for a self-taught smocker like me.

That was more than two years ago when I first learn smocking, and yesterday I manage to complete a simple blouse for my youngest sis, Farah aka Mak Usu. She has been requesting a smocked blouse for so long and only a few months ago decided to have some smocking details on the sleeves...

I hope she will like it and wear this blouse at the uni.

Right after finishing the project I rushed to complete (and it's done) some day curtains for my Project Room and the living room. Phew! What a day! But I'm :)

Next time, I'll try to upload my recent smocking project which is a smocked long dress. Till then, happy sewing!

Newlook 6688 Sundress ~ Size 2 - 3 years

2010-05-10T08:53:00.000+08:00

Salam to all...
Just before I start yet another tempahan baju (which is due the following week), let me chill out for a while and destress myself by doing some... sewing... :)

I bought the Newlook pattern from Pianina I think a month ago. After pasting all the pieces into one giant piece, I used a piece of tracing paper and traced then cut only the pattern I plan to do this time; and keep the mastercopy (in case I want to use it again next time).

As this is only experimental, I used 1mtr of polyester polka dot fabric and also some white fabric for its lining.

Finished with my sewing, let's see the end-product:

I used 1" ribbon for the strap as in the instruction but used narrower ribbon for the bows.

Check out the interior:

Supposed I need to use some net ruffles (tulle) but due to the shortage, I simply made like a tiered skirt to form the skirt lining.

It's fully lined. I use thin fabric as lining.

And see where the zipper is attached. It's a 7" zipper.

After finishing the project, tips that I can give is, you might want to neaten both the skirt and the lining side seam before sewing if you want it neatly done from inside out. Other than attaching the zipper, it should be okay for the beginner to try this pattern out.

I'm thinking of giving this dress away... anybody wants this? Do email me at erphaahdayani@yahoo.com . You'll get this sundress if you're the 10th emailer and a follower of this blog and My Blogshop . Thank you!

Good luck! :)

Chomel...

2010-04-30T10:12:00.000+08:00

Salam...

My big sister is pregnant now and as usual, aunt Erpha will make something for her niece... So Chomel is in the making and I'll make some more for my blogshop as bishops are perfect gifts for newborn babies... :)

For those who are passionate about dressing up their children in beautiful smocked dresses, do visit my newly open shop! Custom order is available! See you there!

Bye! :)

My Project Room

2010-04-14T15:00:00.001+08:00

It's been awhile since I blogged...

Actually I was busy with packing, moving and unpacking things and it takes some time for me to be physically and mentally ready to start sewing again... So, I pleated some cloth (quite a few actually) and did the cutting before moving, smock while moving (machines are packed!) and sew right away after moving (and the house is still not tidied yet!). Still, my team (hubby, son and I) managed to celebrate my 33rd birthday last Monday (12.04.10). :)

I'd like to share with my dearest bloggers my new project room:

The room is not big, just nice for me and my sewing things. I've been using the grey bookshelf to store my fabric, and the small vertical cabinet is to store my DMC threads. I use that blue cabinet to keep my clients' paper patterns. The windows have no curtains yet, what colour should I use? I also plan to paint this room, but still wonder about the colour... any suggestion?

Ok... This is the cutting area... There's a bookshelf for my books which are mostly about sewing and smocking magazines... I've never bought or changed other bookshelf since 10 years ago. The long and steady cutting table is actually an unwanted item which I got from a workshop! Look pretty ugly (no cutting mat) but it's been with me for 7 years now.. :). I keep my beading stuff, pleater, notions and supplies in the drawers. Underneath there's baskets full of cloth belongs to my clients. And there's a steam iron coz I could get lazy sometimes to iron on the ironing board while I sew... I have to ask my hubby to put that 'notice board' on first, just so I can keep track my schedule (and my life!:))

And you must wonder where I place my sewing machine... It's just at the corner next to the door. I always make sure that I can see the entrance without having to turn my head looking at the back whenever I work. It's for fengshui (and my sanity too.. :)). And the windows? It's so I can check whether Alif Harriz is doing his homework... :)

My blogshop is going to open some time next week... I'd love to thank my team members: my hubby at handstitch dept for helping me with all the handstitching work (his work is so neat!), my son for being a great helper whenever I need his help particularly when I need someone to hold the fabric for me while I cut and not forgetting Dodo, the family cat... it's only four of us now but we will manage! :)

I'd love to thank my dearest little sister a.k.a mak usu for letting me using her room while she's doing her final year. Thanks a lot! :)

Do drop by my blogshop starting next week! Bye!

From Borneo Tropical Rainforest with Love...

2010-03-19T05:45:00.000+08:00

My family and I, together with my little sis (mak usu) made a trip to Borneo Tropical Rainforest Resort during CNY holiday last month. Trying to find some inspirations through nature, my target this time is to learn how nature and colours combine with each other... it could be wild flora, insects, fauna etc...

The entrance:

The tour:

Polka dots:

Cross stitch:

Antique gold lace:

Shiny black stranded rayon:

Pistil stitch for the stamens:

This plant has inspired me to use red fabric for my smocking project:

It was such an educational trip. Leaving Miri for Bintulu next month, it will be a sweet memory for me, hubby and our only child Alif, not forgetting my little sis Farah (busy mastering her skill in photography). Lately, I've been going through difficult times and trying to cheer myself up again. Let's just hope there'll be silver linings among the clouds.

To all crafters, friends and bloggers, may happiness, peace, good health, love and kindness be with you all.

Child's Petticoat

2010-02-28T16:04:00.000+08:00

Hi all...

I just made a petticoat for my dress form (dummy) this afternoon while my son and hubby going to the orchard...

I used approx. 1.25mtr x 44" wide of white fabric for the umbrella skirt and 2mtr of tulle (for the gathering) which I bought from the harberdashery. This is how it turned out...

So from a smocked dress photographed like this:

Turned out to look like this:

The petticoat gives more body as you could see the fullness of the skirt and it looks much more presentable when photographed.. :)

My Sis Ritha's Smocked Maternity Top

2010-02-25T05:59:00.000+08:00

This is a very simple pregnant blouse done for my sis. A minimalist and a simple person, she requests no laces or trimmings, no complicated details except a narrow smocked and embroidered panel across the empire line.

The Style: She wants her blouse to be clean cut and hopefully still can be worn even after she gives birth. So I think the best option is to use an insert and then attach the lower piece with a wide pleat (this is for her big belly.. :)) instead of gathering.

One thing you must consider when you smock an insert is not to stretch the smocked panel too much. The reason is that the lower piece (in this case the upper piece too) will tend to create unsightly 'wavy' effect if you overstretch and this is quite obvious since the piece is not gathered. So, to solve this prob, what I normally do is using stable fabric (e.g American cotton) as an insert, or pleat wider panel by using 60" fabric. For a large size I will have to simply join to another piece of fabric and neatening the seam before I start pleating. Another effective method is by unpicking 5 ~ 6cm at each side before tying the pleating threads so that my panel is readily wider.

The smocking: I used 'Morning Glory' design as in AS&E Issue #37 and add medium size red cast-on roses... I think those roses stand out among the turquoise and dk grey florals. I added tiny cylinder japanese beads too while I smock.

The blouse has 14" zipper at the back and finishes with two ties to control fullness. I hope this fits her and suits her style...

My WIP is finishing Cabut for my bro and a smocked sundress for a 6-year-old girl inspired by my recent visit to BTRR, both projects are RED... :). And, I should remind myself that I also need to complete two smocking blouses for the two MAK SUs in the family.. :)

Till next project, gud bye!

Cute Hat Pin Cushion

2010-02-13T17:06:00.000+08:00

Salam to all my dear friends,

This week, I've been waiting for this small package to arrive and here it comes...
It's something that I should have long ago eversince I started sewing (strange huh?). It's done by my bloggerfriend Pianina. I just love how she packed this cute little thing, lovely tape! :)

My sewing machine. Then:

Now:

Whoa! Cool! I thank you Pianina, it's nicely done! (It matches with the butterflies too) ...

P/s: How I wish to attend some kind of needleart convention, so that craft lovers able to share and exchange ideas, perhaps.. is there?

My Update

2010-02-13T16:42:00.000+08:00

Hi all,
My big sis' smocked pregnant blouse is still under progress and... I made this too while smocking...

It's a baju kenduri for the owner to wear in Brunei...

Until we meet again!

Dreamy Melodies

2010-01-24T10:58:00.000+08:00

It's been awhile...

This simple full-bodice smocked dress for a two-year-old has some bright red cast-on flowers on it. I didn't want to smock the trailing vines this time but three-step trellis instead for its base...

My little sister and I had been switching rooms lately and I've sewn new lavender curtains for our newly transformed room. Thanks sis... I hope you'll pass your final year and be a freelance photographer! And own a studio too... :) Have you bought your DSLR, yet? (so many requests, so many questions!)

Projects after this - other than business is a smocked pregnant blouse for my big sister and a Sulam Cabut for my bro.

Busy... Adios!

Calling All Smockers...

2009-12-16T06:29:00.000+08:00

Salam all...

Sejak kebelakangan ni Erpha selalu menerima emel dari smocker friends bertanyakan tentang harga yang patut dikenakan pada gaun smocking yang dibuat untuk pelanggan. Of course kita tak mengenakan apa-apa bayaran pun jika kita hanya buat gaun smocking untuk ahli keluarga sendiri tapi masalah mula timbul bila ada pelanggan yang merungut tentang harga sepasang baju smocking yang mahal...

Well, ada jugak website yang menjual gaun yang berkedut seolah-olah meniru sulaman smocking (buatan mesin) dan dijual dengan harga yang murah, namun Erpha pasti pelanggan bijak memilih... bergantung juga dengan bajet masing-masing kan... Tapi apa yang Erpha nak emphasize di sini, you all smockers, you should be proud with your product! Smocking ni tersangat lah unik dan boleh dikatakan 'haute couture' (limited edition) jadi nilai baju smocking ni sudah tentulah didefinisikan pada harganya yang memang mahal...

Ok smockers... Di sini Erpha menjemput smocker friends untuk berkongsi dengan Erpha bagaimana Erpha meletakkan harga dan anda juga boleh bertukar idea macam mana nak tolong smocker friends kita yang underpaid... Kalau anda berminat, tinggalkan alamat emel anda di dalam comment atau emel kan pada Erpha input dan pendapat anda...

Setiap nilai sesuatu produk itu bergantung kepada faktor geografi (di Sarawak mungkin lebih mahal), kualiti, kos bahan mentah (fabrik dan lain2), caj perkhidmatan (in our case, smocking and embroidery itself dan upah menjahit gaun), masa yang diambil untuk menghasilkan dan lain-lain (cth, kos penghantaran).

Mungkin anda tidak perlulah terlalu spesifik dalam input yang diberi (cth, sulam bullion dari RM1.00 - RM2.00 sekuntum bergantung kepada saiz. Cth yang lain, caj smocking RM2.50 - RM3.00 untuk setiap baris).

Ok smockers... Emel lah Erpha for your input and opinion. It's time to unite!

Bittersweet & Hard Candy

2009-12-03T08:12:00.000+08:00

This will be my last showcase of my smocking collection. I call this ~ Bittersweet & Hard Candy. I couldn't capture the original colour of the fabric with my digital camera (how amateur!).

For those who love (and who don't) chocolate and candy will indulge their sweet tooth in my own way...

I decided to use an American cotton insert and embroidered tiny roses to make it 'pop'. I unpicked the pleating threads 5 ~ 6cm at each side seam and let the pleats closely spaced.

My Smocking Tips (and others) Shared

2009-11-28T07:00:00.003+08:00

Many have emailed asking questions.. er... like the following. Assuming that you already know the troubleshooting and basic steps of pleating and smocking, let's check what I normally do..

1. How do you get prepared for pleating?

Step 1 - Masukkan benang ke mata jarum pengedut dahulu.
Step 2 - Tarik urat benang secara melintang dan gunting mengikut urat benang untuk mendapatkan garis lurus.
Step 3 - Seterika kain yang hendak dikedut, walaupun ia tidak terlalu berkedut (wrinkles).
Step 4 - Gulung kain pada kayu penggulung dengan memastikan bahagian tepi sebelah atas kain (top raw edges) sentiasa lurus.

Rasional kain digulung kemudian adalah supaya kain boleh terus dikedut setelah digulung dan keputusannya anda akan mendapatkan hasil kedutan yang lurus dan tidak senget.

2. Do I have to treat thin fabric differently?

Kain nipis yang lembik menghasilkan terlalu banyak kedutan yang tidak kukuh. Sulaman smocking nampak tidak kemas jika dibandingkan dengan kedutan yang kukuh. Untuk menyelesaikan masalah ini, anda boleh semburkan kain dengan campuran kanji dengan air (spray starch) agar kain menjadi keras sedikit sebelum mengedut.

Satu lagi cara ialah dengan melekatkan kain gam (fusible interfacing) yang paling nipis pada sebelah dalam kain sebelum mengedut (untuk kain yang sangat nipis). Anda akan mendapati setiap kedutan menjadi lebih kukuh dan senang disulam sementara hasil sulamannya pula lebih terserlah.

3. The best preparation for very thin fabric with a lining.

Bagi kain nipis seperti Polycotton atau cotton voile, pilihan terbaik ialah dengan mengedut kain tersebut dengan kain lining (terbaik cotton lining) sekaligus. Hasilnya, kedutan lebih stabil dan senang untuk disulam.

4. What about crispy fabric like organza?

Gabungan kain organza dan kain biasa menghasilkan gaun smocking yang sesuai untuk majlis2 istimewa. Cara terbaik ialah dengan menggunakan cara 3 di atas. Selain itu, anda juga boleh mengedut dengan menggandakan jumlah jarum pengedut iaitu 'half space' (instead of full space) supaya hasil kedutan tidak menggelembung (puff out).

5. For a closely-spaced pleating, 44" or 59" wide fabric is better?

Bidang kain yang biasa digunakan ialah 44". Untuk menghasilkan kedutan yang rapat-rapat, anda gunakan bidang kain 59", namun bidang kain 44" boleh juga menghasilkan kedutan yang rapat-rapat (see my next project 'Bittersweet & Hard Candy' very soon) dengan menarik benang kedutan (unpicking) 5 ~ 6cm dari kedua-dua belah tepi kain (side seam). Pilihan yang terakhir ialah dengan menyambungkan fabric dan helaian kain lain sebelum mengedut.

6. What does a dummy do in making smocked gown?

Patung yang saya panggil dummy ni adalah sebenarnya dinamakan 'toddler dress form', merupakan pelaburan yang paling penting bagi seorang tukang jahit. Fungsinya ialah untuk memadankan pakaian semasa proses menjahit. Badannya yang diperbuat daripada kayu, dilapis dengan span nipis dan dibalut dengan kain jersi memudahkan 'test-garmenting' kerana kain boleh dipinkan padanya. Dress form bukan 'display mannequin' seperti yang terdapat di butik2 pakaian tetapi ia juga boleh berfungsi seperti 'display mannequin'.

Disebabkan harganya yang agak mahal cuba cari saiz yang sesuai digunakan untuk semua, contohnya saya beli dress form saiz 5 tahun untuk baju smocking saiz 4 - 7 tahun. Berbaloi kan?

7. Secrets to succesful smocking?

Ceraikan setiap floss benang sebelum disatukan semula mengikut jumlah floss yang diperlukan.

Selalu mulakan sulaman dari tengah2 (centre) panel smocking.

Gunakan benang yang pendek (>< 30cm). Jangan gunakan lebihan benang yang sama untuk memulakan sulaman smocking yang baru. Mematikan benang adalah lebih baik daripada meneruskan sulaman tetapi dengan benang yang sudah lusuh. Mematikan benang pada 'cable' adalah lebih bijak daripada mematikan pada 'trelis'.

8. The number of floss I should use?

Gunakan 2 floss untuk 'backsmocking'. Secara amnya, gunakan 3 floss benang untuk smocking biasa, 4 floss benang pada kain yang coraknya padat (busy) dan 6 floss benang untuk 'picture smocking'.

9. What is the price of a handsmocked and hand embroidered gown?

Di Sarawak, harga sepasang gaun smocking (tidak kira umur dan saiz) boleh mencecah hingga ratusan ringgit. Harga menyulam smocking dan upah menjahit dikira secara berasingan untuk mendapatkan harga sebenar. Selain itu, material yang digunakan juga mempengaruhi harga gaun tersebut. Kualiti jahitan dan kualiti sulaman adalah yang paling dititikberatkan.

10. Last but not least (a personal question for me). What is your age?

I understand why people email and ask me this question. Even in other counties like US and Australia, not many young people enjoy this hobby and willing to learn, some not until they have their own little babies. It normally grannies smock for their grandchildren.

If you are young and passionate in this hobby, raise your hand and pat your shoulder. Be proud smockers! In the meantime, grannies... please continue with your smocking and pass your skill to us!

Ohoh! I forgot! I am 32. hehe...

Graduation Day

2009-11-28T05:09:00.003+08:00

Last Thursday was my niece's Graduation Day...

Izzah Atirah on the Graduation Day. Besides the certificate of attending the kindergarten, she receives quite a number of prizes for her achievement. Go go Atirah! :)

There she is, fourth from left. Go go Atirah! :)

Atirah was in the third place for the 1st semester and the chinese characters above says that she obtained the second place in overall semester exams...

Pertandingan Tulisan Bahasa Cina - Champion

Pertandingan Mewarna - Champion

Pertandingan Tulisan Bahasa Inggeris - Second runner up

Ujian Semester Pertama - Third Place

Ujian Keseluruhan - Second Place

The Graduation was combined with its neighbour, Chinese primary school and was held in their school hall. Izzah Atirah will be going to SJK Chung Hua next year which was her aunts' and uncle's old school. Somehow this bring back my memory when I was young like her... Aunt Erpha used to take part in so many competitions and won so many prizes... and Aunt Erpha was so fond of dancing and singing and performing on stage...

Izzah Atirah, standing with her proud mama (my dearest kindest sweetest sis) will be proud that she belongs to the school and for so many years that I haven't heard the school anthem, I was so touched that day that tears simply rolled down my cheek while the school anthem was sung. Go go SRB Chung Hwa (SJK Chung Hua)!!!

Congratulations Izzah Atirah! Jia You! Ni Neng Zhuo De Dao De!!

Childhood Friend

2009-11-18T08:06:00.002+08:00

This is my latest smocking design ~ Childhood Friend.

I create this babydoll dress for active little 2-year olds. The spacious room for growth will make sure this dress to be worn for a long long time; real investment for smart parents.

Let's check the interior...

I fused lightweight woven fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the front yoke to substitude the lining. Why is that... I believe this method is fabric savvy and the most effective way to support the heavy smocked panel.

Talk about colour combinations...

Somehow the combination of cream, maroon, and dark green brings back my memory to my childhood wild plant... Sprinkles of maroon cable flowerettes match with the tiny maroon motifs. I thought I wanted to embroider some bullion roses, but then, well... simplicity is the best policy.

Another Smocking Project

2009-11-14T08:52:00.011+08:00

I call this design ~ Perfect Mauve.

It's a simple square yoke smocking design scattered with 3mm light pink pearls. Fabric used ~ mauve poly cotton, quite thin material so I've fully lined it with cotton lining for comfortable wear. No petticoat required. :)

This sleeveless dress has satin mini piping details around the neck and armhole binding. The cummerbund comes with wide sashes is suitable for older girls; this dress could be the best dress to wear on a special occasion.

I used blind zippers instead of buttons for this design, neat finishing for a sweet young lady.

My label sewn behind the zippers...

My dad's comments on this dress ~ "Very romantic". What do you think?

The Socialites

2009-11-02T14:18:00.000+08:00

Amidst busy schedule and smocking projects I suddenly thought of my Barbies this morning so I took them out from my box and dressed them in their outfits when I first bought them. I photographed them ~ all bare-footed on my mini ironing board and they seemed to coorporate..

It's sad that I'm not making new dresses for them anymore so just to make me feeI better I share with you more of their collections which I made... years ago.. :(

My dear Barbie (unnamed yet) is wearing a halter-neck top with matching pencil skirt. I think she looks sassy in those boots...

Check out the back. It's backless and there's a slit on the back skirt. Hot and sexy!

Check these pyjamas out. I've embroidered the top and topsitched with contrasting thread colour around the neckline and sleeves. The pants are elasticized without any enclosure so she would just slipped them in (nightwear is supposed to be comfy, right?).

I used to sew white velcro as an enclosure. But then changed to zippers after getting some crash course from tiny zippers. Using zippers are much better!

As you can see, velcros are thick and it's quite difficult for her to fit on the dollstand if I need her to stand.

Right after knowing about Tiny Zippers, I decided to make a dress for Melur, just a simple dress as taught by Lisa of Tiny Zippers. Melur, as I named her, is a new version of Barbie doll and has quite smaller body compared to the old version.

I can't have the tinyzippers as they are too expensive, talk about currency convertion and postage and handling. So I improvised and rummaged the harbedashery and found some zippers with small sliders. Well, it works for this dress! I'm happy with the result.

All designs are coded and well kept in a clear holder, hopefully for future use.

Come Out & Play!

2009-11-01T21:38:00.001+08:00

I always ask my hubby to pick the fabric for my smocking projects and this time he chosed blue with very dense white daisy prints. I name this design 'Come Out & Play!' ~ Suitable for robust little four-year olds...

I love incorporating my smocking with one or two colours from the fabric colours. The white collars with piping detail balance out the busy prints. I think the daisies will make this design stand out so I embroidered some bullion daisies that are uniform.

To create a smocking design like this, I create a smocking graph using Excel (I found that typical graph paper not much of help, and smocking design software is too expensive). I have plenty of blank graph forms printed so I can use them whenever I need to.

Me, Myself & My Smocking Magazines... (Part 3)

2009-10-16T17:57:00.036+08:00

Untuk bahagian terakhir ini, jom kita jenguk-jenguk sebahagian lagi majalah kesayangan Erpha ni.

Sepintas lalu
Untuk pengetahuan rakan blog, bukan semua keluaran majalah terdahulu (Back Issues) AS&E merupakan Rare Issue. Ada pemilik kedai yang tidak tahu nilai majalah ni namun ramai juga yang meletakkan harga yang tinggi pada majalah terdahulu yang sebenarnya bukan dikategorikan sebagai Rare Issue. Jadi berhati-hatilah semasa membeli AS&E di kedai k...

Secara peribadi, Erpha suka sangat pada projek smocking yang ada dalam isu-isu 60-an kerana ia lebih bersifat 'tradisional' berbanding dengan keluaran 70-an dan terkini yang bercirikan moden dan kontemporari. Namun itulah yang dikatakan perubahan...

Jadi, mungkin koleksi yang anda miliki kini bakal menjadi Rare Issue dan harganya pun akan menjadi lebih mahal. Dan jika anda ternampak isu 60-an terjual di pasaran dengan harga biasa, jangan berfikir dua kali untuk mendapatkannya kerana sekarang ia sudah menjadi Rare Issue! Tidak lupa juga isu 70-an yang bakal menjadi Rare Issue tidak lama lagi.

Bercakap tentang isu 60-an dan 70-an ni, jom kita lihat di antara isu yang menjadi kegemaran Erpha...

Rare Issue #65
Erpha telah menyiapkan 2 projek smocking untuk anak-anak buah Erpha daripada isu ini. Erpha juga telah menyiapkan sehelai gaun smocking yang dihadiahkan khas sempena kelahiran baby selebriti kesayangan Erpha.

Rare Issue #60
Bagi sesiapa yang berminat untuk mengetahui rahsia Picture Smocking yang cantik, bolehlah mendapatkan petua berguna yang terdapat di dalam isu ni.

Rare Issue #67

Isu ni popular dengan rekaan bishop ala oriental hasil rekaan orang Malaysia! Isu ni memang unik dan tersendiri.

Di bawah ni Erpha sertakan isu-isu 70-an yang dijangka akan menjadi Rare Issue:
Issue #73 ~ Menampilkan stail klasik dan moden.

Issue #78 ~ Majalah pertama Erpha! Rekaan smocking yang unik, dan penuh dengan perincian yang tiada tandingannya. Setiap kali Erpha menatap helaiannya, terimbas kenangan silam pertama kali Erpha mengenali smocking.

Issue #79 ~ Isu ni mengetengahkan banyak projek smocking untuk anak gadis. Rekaan memang komplikated dan cantik!
Ada lagi... jom tengok isu-isu all time favourite Erpha!

Rare Issue #46 ~ Need I say more? Cantik!

Rare Issue #49 ~ Selain daripada rekaan smocking yang cantik, berguna kepada sesiapa yang nak tahu tentang smocking.

Issue #56 ~ Ketahui rahsia bagaimana menghasilkan sehelai gaun smocking yang sempurna daripada seorang pakar!
Issue #74 ~ Best, best dan best!
Issue #75 ~ Banyak memberi idea untuk menghasilkan pakaian smocking untuk baby...

Dan akhir sekali, check out the spine untuk isu-isu 80-an. Kecuali Isu#81, yang lain semuanya dah berlabel bermula dari Isu #80.
Ok ok, got to stop! Good luck to you all!

Me, Myself and My Smocking Magazines... (Part 2)

2009-10-11T11:22:00.096+08:00

Salam semua...

Jom kita terus tinjau-tinjau koleksi Majalah smocking Erpha. Disebabkan hakcipta terpelihara yang membataskan Erpha untuk menyiarkan kandungan mukasurat majalah ini, Erpha cuma boleh berikan gambar muka depan majalah kesayangan Erpha nih...

Sejarah Ringkas

Pada awal penerbitannya, majalah hitam putih yang dulunya dikenali sebagai Australian Smocking ini mula diterbitkan pada tahun 1987. Kemudian, nama telah ditukarkan kepada Australian Smocking & Embroidery sehinggalah ke hari ini. Dengan keluaran terkini iaitu Issue #88, AS&E tetap menjadi bahan rujukan utama kepada peminat seni sulaman smocking di seluruh dunia.

Istilah Penting

Selain daripada isu terkini dan isu terdahulu (Back Issues), terdapat beberapa keluaran majalah AS&E yang dikategorikan sebagai 'Rare Issue'. Rare Issue adalah keluaran majalah terdahulu yang jarang didapati, atau tidak lagi diulangcetak namun, sentiasa mendapat permintaan daripada peminat smocking disebabkan oleh projek smocking yang terdapat di dalam majalah tersebut.

Bagi Erpha, setiap keluaran AS&E adalah unik kerana smocking sememangnya sebuah seni sulaman tangan yang tak lapuk dek hujan dan tak pula lekang dek panas. Jom kita tengok sebahagian daripada koleksi Rare Issues Erpha...

Issue #26 menjadi idaman ramai kerana rekaan smocking bernama 'Titania'.
Nilai pasaran RM180 ke atas. Erpha beli secara online RM20++.

Issue #39. Popular dengan rekaan 'Jacaranda Blue.
Nilai semasa RM180 ~ RM250.
Beli secara online RM70.00

Issue#62. Kalau beli secara online, boleh mencecah sehingga RM200.
Erpha beli di kedai buku RM43. :)

Issue #48. Nilai semasa RM200 ke atas.
Dijumpai dalam keadaan yang dhaif di sebuah kedai buku.
Harga tertera: RM35. Apa lagi, rembatlah!
Nampak baru setelah dikeluarkan dari plastik.

Issue#51. Nilai semasa RM80 ~ RM180.
Erpha beli pada harga RM45, sebelum jadi Rare Issue.

Issue #61. Paling berharga buat Erpha kerana isu ini khas untuk yang kidal.
Harga mencecah RM300. Erpha beli secara online RM60.

Itulah di antara koleksi Rare Issues Erpha... Majalah AS&E ni ibarat barangan antik jugak, semakin lama semakin bernilai. Hakikatnya, ramai tuan kedai yang tidak mengetahui nilai sebenar majalah yang mereka jual. Kepada peminat smocking di luar sana, jom kita sama-sama buat magazine hunting.. Good luck!

Akan datang: Jom jenguk-jenguk sebahagian lagi koleksi AS&E kegemaran Erpha dan cerita di sebalik beberapa keluaran yang memberi makna kepada Erpha.

Sulam Cabut Sarawak ~ Cabut Pagar

2009-10-11T07:34:00.009+08:00

Hi all...

I've finished yet another Sulam Cabut which I call 'Cabut Pagar'...

I used blue-grey satin saluna for this Baju Kurung to match with its Indonesian Batik skirt...

The basic technique is similar to Cabut Kipas but the embroidery technique itself is much simpler than Cabut Fadly or Cabut Kipas. The embroidery technique is called 'needleweaving' in certain European countries. I used three strands of DMC stranded cotton, and stripping each floss before combining them again and start doing the needleweaving.

If you look at the embroidery closely, this design is pretty much look like our traditional balustrade...

The finishing detail is two rows of feather stitches; similar to Cabut Kipas. I tried triple feather stitch but double feather stitch look more original and more beautiful.

Phew! Hope my client'll like the outcome. :)

Me, Myself and My Smocking Magazines... (Part 1)

2009-10-10T13:33:00.026+08:00

Artikel ini ditulis khas untuk rakan-rakan blog yang sedang mencari-cari rujukan yang paling sesuai, paling lengkap dan paling tepat untuk memulakan atau mengukuhkan pengetahuan tentang smocking.

Salam semua...

Dah lama Erpha berhasrat nak kongsikan serba sedikit tentang koleksi majalah dan buku-buku smocking Erpha ni...

Erpha mula mengumpul majalah Australian Smocking & Embroidery (AS&E) ni semenjak Januari 2008 sehingga sekarang. Dan untuk koleksi Erpha yang ke-41 ni (Issue #88) hati Erpha gembira sangat kerana gambar hasil smocking dan tulisan Erpha telah diterbitkan di mukasurat 5 majalah tu! Happyyy sangat!!

Bagi yang nak berjinak-jinak dengan hobi yang unik ni, jom kita tour!

Langkah Pertama

Sekiranya anda berminat nak tahu segala-galanya tentang smocking, dan sukar pula untuk berguru, Erpha recommend buku ni sangat-sangat:

Oops! Bukan yang ni... :D

Ok, yang ni. Layak dengan tagline nya yang berbunyi 'Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Smocking'. Buku ni memang boleh dikatakan 100% lengkap dan baru-baru ni buku ni telah diterjemahkan ke Bahasa Melayu yang sememangnya semakin memudahkan.

Langkah Kedua
Bila dah berjaya buat asas smocking, anda mungkin memerlukan contoh-contoh projek dan saya sangat mengesyorkan agar anda mendapatkan majalah smocking Australian Smocking & Embroidery. Setiap projek memang lengkap dengan arahan, pattern dan cara-cara menjahit. Ini akan dikupas kemudian.

Langkah Ketiga
Tapi kalau nak puas hati lagi, anda bolehlah mendapatkan buku ni sebagai panduan menjahit pakaian yang sudah dismocking:

Buku ni memberi kita panduan lengkap tentang teknik-teknik menjahit gaun smocking agar ia menjadi sehelai gaun yang indah bukan sahaja kerana corak smockingnya tapi dilengkapi perincian lain seperti kolar Peter Pan, lengan bergelembung dan lain-lain.

Langkah Keempat

Kata orang, alang-alang menyeluk pekasam, biarlah sampai ke pangkal lengan. Gaun smocking lebih terserlah keindahannya jika dihiasi dengan sulaman bunga-bungaan bullion. Majalah smocking ada memberikan panduan namun sekali lagi, jika anda betul-betul nak 'conquer' ilmu ni, anda bolehlah mendapatkan buku ni:

Buku ni mendedahkan bagaimana dengan mempelajari teknik asas sulaman bullion sahaja, anda mampu menghasilkan pelbagai jenis sulaman seperti bunga-bungaan, buah-buahan, serangga, binatang, dan banyak lagi.

Langkah Kelima
Ok, bila dah buat banyak projek smocking, sesekali anda mungkin terfikir untuk mengubah stail atau mungkin mengadaptasi pattern asal. Ini tentu sekali akan melibatkan teknik jahitan. Untuk memastikan hasil kerja tetap cantik (gaun smocking yang cantik ialah gabungan smocking dan teknik jahitan yang halus), anda boleh menghasilkan gaun seperti seorang profesional melalui buku ini:
Buku ni mengupas tentang tektik-teknik asas jahitan (yang semestinya lengkap) seperti cara-cara memasang zip sembunyi, cara-cara menjahit facing dan lining, kemasan kolar dan sebagainya.

Benarlah kata orang, kalau tak dipecahkan ruyung, manakan dapat sagunya. Kalau dah minat, carilah dan pelajari ilmu itu sampai betul-betul boleh buat. Kenalah 'invest' sikit bagi yang berminat. Sesungguhnya ilmu Allah itu ibarat lautan di muka bumi ini... yang mampu kita terokai hanyalah setitis daripadanya... Marilah kita sama-sama explore...

Akan datang: Jom kita cuci mata koleksi majalah Australian Smocking & Embroidery Erpha, koleksi 'Rare Issue' yang Erpha ada dan kisah di sebalik majalah kesayangan Erpha.

Smocked Dresses ~ Lining Info

2009-09-20T13:44:00.020+08:00

Hari tu Erpha dah janji kat Pianina tentang baju gaun smocking; sama ada perlu letak lining (lapisan kain nipis di dalam) ataupun tidak.

Pianina (dan rakan2 blog lain yang berminat nak tau), Erpha cuba jelaskan sebaik yang mungkin k. Dan jika ada rakan blog lain yang sudi beri input, dipersilakan, (kak Pah? Nannie? Hany?)

What is Lining?

Semua rakan blog dah tahu yang lining ialah lapisan dalam pakaian yang diperbuat daripada kain nipis.

Why Lining a Smocked Dress?

Lining diperlukan bila kain yang digunakan untuk gaun smocking adalah dari jenis kain nipis contohnya cotton chiffon, cotton voile (kasa rubiah) dan polycotton (campuran polyester dan cotton).

Lining ~ Pros and Cons:

Selain daripada melindungi pakaian yang nipis, lining juga:

1. Menyokong gaun smocking yang 'berat'

Untuk contoh gaun ini, lining disertakan pada square yoke untuk menyokong panel yang sudah dipleat. Bahagian Bahu dan kolar diperkemaskan dan dijahit terlebih dahulu, dan untuk 'attach' lining, kena slipstitch pada pangkal panel smocking untuk mengukuhkan.

Cuba lihat kemasan dari luar, mini piping digunakan untuk lebih detail. Lihat square yoke, ia tidak lutsinar dan warna putih lebih solid dan terserlah.

2. Lining Melindungi Agar Lebih Tahan Lama

Gaun ini adalah gaun pertama (handpleated) saya untuk anak buah, Izzah Atirah. Ia telah dilining penuh (fully lined) untuk rekaan smocking penuh (full bodice smocking).

Untuk rekaan Marion Sitko ini, ia mempunyai elemen sulaman bunga yang banyak dan kecil. Jadi, lining diletakkan bertujuan untuk melindungi sulaman bunga dari dalam agar terpelihara semasa proses mencuci dan menjemur. Ramai berpendapat bahawa gaun smocking harus dibersihkan dengan cucian tangan namun hakikatnya sulaman smocking adalah sangat kukuh dan gaun smocking ok je bila diterbalikkan, dan menggunakan gentle cycle untuk cucian mesin.

Untuk gambar di atas, benang sulam disembunyikan di sebalik lining, agar gaun nampak kemas mahupun dari dalam.

3. Lining tidak diperlukan pada kain yang tebal

Untuk gaun ini, lining tidak disertakan memandangkan saya telah menggunakan jenis kain American cotton yang sememangnya tebal. Meskipun kain cotton 'sejuk' di badan, namun memandangkan cuaca tropika yang panas, memadailah jika gaun ini selapis je. Yang ni perlu cucian tangan untuk mengelakkan dari kedutan smocking jadi 'overstretch' kerana panel smocking tidak dilindungi.

Lihat kemasan di kolar Peter Pan. Gunakan teknik 'bias binding' untuk menggantikan lining.

Lihat kemasan dari luar. Sekali lagi, mini piping memainkan peranan yang penting untuk mencantumkan square yoke dan panel smocking. Square yoke mampu menyokong panel smocking yang berat dan warna juga tidak lutsinar kerana penggunaan kain jenis tebal.

4. Lining tidak diperlukan pada kain nipis untuk sundress (gaun bertali).

Gaun bertali atau sundress tidak memerlukan lining di dalam disebabkan rekaan itu sendiri. Kecuali untuk tujuan penjagaan, panel smocking itu sendiri adalah tebal hasil dari kedutan dan biasanya blaus bertali juga boleh dipadankan dengan seluar, jadi lining adalah tidak perlu. Namun, jika bahagian skirtnya lutsinar, petticoat atau kain dalam boleh dijahit secara berasingan dan boleh dipakai bila diperlukan.

Oops, yang ni tidak disertakan contoh...

Kesimpulannya, penggunaan lining sangat bergantung kepada jenis kain, stail dan cuaca. Harap Pianina berpuas hati dengan penjelasan Erpha. Mungkin lain kali Erpha boleh tunjukkan cara-cara menjahit gaun smocking berlining pula.

Anak Merdeka

2009-09-20T13:29:00.006+08:00

Aunt Erpha Welcomes Arif

Mohamad Arif Wira Ad-Din was born on 31 August 2009 at Miri City Medical Centre while all Malaysians were celebrating the 52 year of Independence.

Congratulations to my dearest sister, Rimba Melati and her husband Junaidi for their third child. May Allah bless our family.

Smocking is back!

2009-09-20T13:05:00.006+08:00

Hi all...

So so so happy that smocking is back in my schedule again... Though still busy with the baju-baju for Ramah Tamah Aidilfitri, but.. I will manage! :)

My stash of fabrics, waiting to be smocked..

Checks, prints, plains, tartans, hailspot, polka dots, voiles, Japanese cottons, American cottons, organzas, cotton chiffon, polycottons, whites, blues, pinks, yellows, browns, purples, reds... and the list goes on... :)

To all smocking lovers, let's get started! Good luck and Salam Syawal.

Worked it!

2009-09-20T12:30:00.008+08:00

Salam Aidilfitri...

Phew! At last, got little time to update my blog. Here I am, sitting on my sister-in-law's table in Betong, Sarawak and enjoying myself here posting something for bloggers on 1 Syawal.

Here's some of my Sulam manik done.

Sulam Cabut Kipas - Baju Melayu

2009-09-05T13:47:00.005+08:00

Hi all, it's been a while...

here's the baju melayu to match the green baju kurung I made before...huhu... wanted to share more but just couldn't for now...

Take a Break ~ Have Some Fun with Barbie

2009-08-10T21:40:00.016+08:00

Still busy with the baju raya... need some rest to destress and refresh... Why not having some fun with my Barbie... Let's see what they have in their wardrobe...

This is her first cotton shirtdress. It's 100% handstitched with matching black daisy trimming details around the neck and the belt.

This collared jacket with a matching pleated skirt was made from a newly bought checked handkerchief which belongs to my hubby. The rolled hem made my stitching a lot easier so I didn't have to neaten the edges. The challenge is always joining the sleevecap to the armhole.

I match this ensemble with a knitted sweatshirt which was made from baby socks! Cool... :) I name this style 'Schoolgirl'.

This 2-piece dress is a simple empire-cut summer collection with purple bead straps to adorn. I love the ruffled skirt and this dress fits her well.

This sexy halter-neck top made from black satin is meticulously handsewn and embellished with beads and sequins. The matching pants are also beaded. I got dangling earrings in a craftshop and turned it into chic belt for her. Looks like she is ready for a girl's night out!

It's been a while since I made something for them... There's lots of beautiful ramnents waiting for me to stitch more clothes but I just couldn't find time anymore... how sad... :(

Next time: I'll show you their handmade wardrobe made of paper box, with tiny handmade hangers (they need them) and a comfy couch ~ all done by supportive hubby. Till then, happy stitching!

Sulam Manik dan Labuci

2009-07-26T12:38:00.014+08:00

Erpha nak kongsikan hasil sulaman manik dan labuci yang telah Erpha siapkan untuk seorang cikgu ni.. Ringkas, sesuai untuk dipakai semasa mengajar.

Sulam Manik Beriring (Slanting Beads)

Yang ni dipanggil Sulam Kaki Lipan... Macam lampu lip-lap raya la pulak kan...

Yang ni hasil dari gabungan pelbagai teknik dengan menggunakan batu (gem), manik silinder, manik bulat dan labuci dari saiz besar dan kecil. Warnanya Erpha padankan dengan warna kain sarung Samarinda...

Semua teknik-teknik menyulam manik labuci ni Erpha kaut dan pelajari sendiri dari buku-buku tulisan Rosita Jaafar. Buku-buku ni sangat berguna kepada sesiapa yang ingin belajar sendiri, terutama bagi yang tak berpeluang untuk menghadiri mana-mana bengkel atau kelas sulaman manik...

Buku-buku ni dilengkapi dengan arahan bergambar yang jelas dan senang difahami. Satu pelaburan yang terbaik bagi sesiapa yang berminat untuk mempelajari teknik-teknik menyulam.

Sulam Cabut Sarawak ~ Cabut Bunga Tanjung Pucuk Rebung

2009-07-25T20:50:00.025+08:00

Agak lama juga Erpha tak update blog ni. Hari-hari yang dilalui pun memang semakin sibuk.

Waktu beroperasi di rumah seawal jam 7.30 pagi, in between, pantau kerja sekolah Alif, urus itu ini, makan tengah hari (terima kasih mak kerana memasak...) dan mungkin nak lelap barang sekejap, kemudian, sambung semula kerja-kerja menjahit sehinggalah pukul 5 petang. Tapi waktu-waktu peak season ni kenalah 'overtime' sampai pukul 6. Ketika suis mesin jahit dimatikan, kedengaranlah bunyi van dan kelihatan bapak yang baru balik dari memungut buah durian (musim buah durian..). Sebelah malam pula lebih kepada jahitan tangan dan sulam-menyulam..

Minggu ni Erpha rasa lega sikit sebab Baju Sulam Cabut dah siap lagi sepasang (walaupun masih ada lagi beberapa pasang yang tengah queue). Memang kebiasaannya, selain dari Kek Lapis Sarawak, baju Sulam Cabut Sarawak selalu dijadikan buah tangan atau ole-ole tanda kenang-kenangan bagi sesiapa yang pernah menetap di sini.

Kali ni Erpha nak tunjukkan serba sedikit tentang proses menyulam Cabut Bunga Tanjung Pucuk Rebung. Proses asas penyediaannya lebih kurang sama aje dengan Cabut Kipas. Baju ni Erpha buat khas untuk seorang cikgu yang berasal dari Kelantan.. Baik orangnya dan berbudi bahasa.

1) Contoh di atas ialah untuk hujung lengan dan juga untuk kaki baju. Ukur 2.0cm, 2 inci dari kaki baju (untuk kelim). Tarik urat benang 0.5cm di atas dan di bawah; 1.0cm di antaranya dibiarkan saja.

2) Apabila kerja-kerja menarik urat benang selesai, gunakan pensel dan pembaris untuk menanda 0.5cm dan 1.0cm secara melintang (crosswise), berselang seli. Dengan menggunakan gunting sulam, gunting dan tarik urat benang mengikut ukuran dan anda akan mendapati asas sulam ini berbentuk seperti di atas. Gunakan jarum peniti untuk menarik lebihan urat benang agar hasilnya kemas.

3) Untuk proses seterusnya, Erpha mula menyulam dengan menggunakan benang DMC perle cotton agar bunga tanjung terbentuk dengan 'mengisi' kotak-kotak tadi. Agak sukar untuk Erpha tunjukkan setiap langkah kerana sulam Cabut ni sememangnya sukar (tapi tak la terlalu sukar sekiranya kita ingin belajar).

4) Sulam Cabut Bunga Tanjung ni dihiasi dengan sulaman pucuk rebung pada bahagian atas dan bawah lelubang (eyelet).

Kalau diperhatikan konsep sulaman ni sangat mirip dengan Cabut Fadly (hybrid), cuma perbezaan saiz kekotak yang lebih kecil pada Cabut Fadly dan juga perbezaan pada pelengkapnya (finishing).

Baju Kurung dari kain polos bersulam Cabut dipadankan dengan kain sarung...

Dah siap...

Sewing Notions for Embroidery

2009-07-11T21:23:00.008+08:00

It's been a busy week and I'll get busier day by day, week by week until Hari Raya. I guess I could only update my blog once a week now and found these pix in my library... So I decided to write something about them... Jom baca!

1) Tailor's Wax - Yang kaler putih, berbuku macam sabun tu kita panggil wax. Wax ialah sejenis cairan dalam proses pembuatan lilin. If you can't find this, you can also use the candlestick. Kegunaannya, setelah benang dimasukkan pada mata jarum, lurutkan benang pada wax untuk menguatkan struktur benang dan supaya benang tidak mudah bersimpul semasa menyulam manik dan labuci. Also, very helpful when you bead while you smock.

2) Embroidery scissors - I've kept my scissors forever. Ada juga yang jenis mahal dan branded. Memang Erpha tak pernah tukar atau beli gunting sulam lain since the first day I learned embroidery. Bila tumpul, my hubby tolong asah... he2 (and I don't know how he did it). Gunting yang kecil ni sangat berguna bila Erpha perlu menggunting urat benang dengan tepat selain memudahkan proses mengetatkan dan memotong benang selepas membuat simpulan. Sila lihat contoh gambar di bawah. I need sharp pointed scissors to get the work done (Artikel Sulam Cabut ni akan Erpha poskan sedikit masa lagi).

3) From left, ni jarum sulam biasa. Jarum ni ada pelbagai saiz dan yang pasti mata jarumnya lebih besar untuk memudahkan kita memasukkan benang yang agak tebal, contohnya benang sulam DMC perle coton. Erpha gunakan jarum ni untuk Sulam Cabut.

4) Yang di tengah2, ok yang ni jarum untuk sulam manik. If you're a beginner you might not have seen this before but if you love sulam manik labuci, you got to have this. Beading needles ni memang halus dan panjang untuk memudahkan kita memasukkan manik sekecik manapun. Tapi Erpha tak rekomen guna jarum ni untuk smocking bermanik... terlalu halus, walaupun manik tu kecik.

5) A..ha.. Yang ni dipanggil Milliners.. Orang puteh panggil Straw needles. Jarum ni mempunyai ketebalan yang sekata, dari kepala hingga ke hujung. Fungsinya, untuk menghasilkan sulam bulllion yang caaanntikk dan kemas. Jarum ni memang sesuai untuk membuat bullion memandangkan saiznya yang sekata untuk memudahkan simpulan benang melepasi kepala jarum. Kalau bullion selalu tak menjadi, mungkin inilah penyebabnya ~ penggunaan jarum yang tidak sesuai. Lihat contoh2 sulam bullion Erpha under 'smocking lable'.

Well, some also prefer sharps but I'll just stick to these... Selain itu, hanya jarum jenis ni yang sesuai digunakan untuk beading dalam smocking.

For some other notions, of course we need hoop atau ram untuk mengetatkan fabrik semasa kita menyulam. Kalau pembaca perhatikan artikel Erpha dalam Sulam Cabut, you will find that my hoop nampak pelik. That's because Erpha gunakan cellaphone tape untuk melindungi fabrik supaya fabrik dan hasil sulaman tidak rosak. Melilit dengan pita jenis kain boleh menebalkan hoop dan menyukarkan kerja. So, I don't recommend it walaupun kebanyakan buku sulaman mencadangkan kita gunakan yang jenis kain.

Dan satu lagi.. thimble. Thimble ni melindungi jari kita semasa menyulam. But I don't use it sebab tak biasa... he2... Hilang keyakinan menyulam sebab tak dapat 'merasa' jarum dan benang...

So I guess that's all for now... Harap2 dapat menulis lagi lain kali. Sebelum Erpha berundur, singgah2 la selalu... Erpha akan tulis tentang Sulam Cabut Bunga Tanjung Pucuk Rebung pula... Adios...

Aunt Erpha Welcomes Aniqah

2009-07-01T20:14:00.008+08:00

Nur Aniqah Izz Zayani

Pada 1 Julai 2009, Aniqah (yang bermaksud yang cantik lagi menawan) selamat dilahirkan di Hospital Miri. Tahniah daripada kekanda Erpha kepada adinda Agus dan adinda Rozmaria. Cucu perempuan kedua di dalam keluarga Othman ini sememangnya dinanti-nantikan oleh babah dan mamanya.

Syukur alhamdulillah, kepada Allah jua dipanjatkan rasa bersyukur kerana sememangnya pelbagai dugaan telah ditempuh dan kehadiran Aniqah bagaikan satu rahmat dan kesabaran selama ini rasanya terbalas dengan hanya menatap wajah comel ini...

Kepada Aniq (yang bermaksud yang tampan lagi menawan), tahniah kerana mendapat adik baru...

Berikut respons pertama setelah melihat dia...

"Hey rosy apple hey rosy..." - Aunt Rita a.k.a Wawa

"Aduh... Kenak mukanya gia glak..? Unexpected la..." - Aunt Erpha

"E-eh... Mak Bedah nak ke mana?" - Aunt Rimba

"Ee... Kacak mukanya...!" - Nenek lampuh

"Alif pun maok ada adek macam ya..." - Alif Harriz, my son

My Version of Moppet's Day Out ~ Complete

2009-06-30T08:54:00.011+08:00

My client has requested this simple design with bows decorating the lower edge of the backsmocked yoke.

The white collars are adorned with two bows and edged with mini piping and cute laces.

I got these cute buttons and laces from Cottage Patch at Jalan Ampang and Alice has been very helpful to post them for me.

Sulam Cabut Sarawak ~ Cabut Kipas

2009-06-21T20:47:00.024+08:00

Seperti yang dijanjikan, Erpha akan terangkan sedikit sebanyak tentang proses membuat Cabut Kipas pada Baju Kurung.

1. Terlebih dahulu, urat benang hendaklah ditarik secara melintang, dan gunting mengikut garisan tersebut untuk mendapatkan ira kain yang lurus sebelum memotong fabrik. Ini penting supaya kelim bahagian Baju Kurung, seperti pesak dan lengan baju bertemu dan tidak pula menyenget (sound complicated) setelah dijahit.

2. Bahagikan ira kain yang tertinggal dengan menggunakan teknik 'hem' seperti gambar di bawah (patience is mandatory here).

3. Apabila selesai, tapak telah tersedia untuk disulam cabut. Untuk Cabut Kipas, secara asasnya ia merupakan simpulan-simpulan yang dibuat pada ira kain yang telah dibahagikan.

4. Simpulan peringkat kedua. Peringkat ini diulangi sebanyak tiga kali untuk memenuhkan kesemua 'hem'.

5. Sebagai penyudah, sulamkan 'double feather stitch' pada atas dan bawah Cabut Kipas. Sulaman feather stitch akan melengkapkan Sulam Cabut dan menyembunyikan sulam 'hem'.

6. Apabila selesai, jahit tepi kaki baju dan kelim dengan jahitan tangan seperti biasa. Inilah hasilnya..

Quilt Tote Bag by Kak Pah

2009-06-21T20:28:00.009+08:00

Seronoknya Erpha bila dah terima pesanan quilted tote bag buatan tangan Kak Pah... Hari tu Erpha nampak kain English rose dalam blog Kak Pah... So I requested one tote bag...

Komen tentang beg:

1. Fabrik yang cantik..

2. Jahitan yang kemas dan teliti.

3. Perincian beg yang simple yet practical.

4. Saiz yang ok... very spacious dan compartment pun kemas jahitannya.

Erpha tak berapa pandai sangat buat beg, so thanks so much Kak Pah for making this. Tengok isi beg tu, I've put my smocking project and a hoop for Sulam Cabut. Dalam canister biru ada jarum dan gunting sulam... :) Senang dibawa ke mana-mana dengan tote bag yang Kak Pah buat untuk Erpha...

Sulam Manik, Labuci dan Kristal ~ Baju Kurung Pesak Gantung

2009-06-21T20:11:00.009+08:00

Inilah Baju Kurung Pesak Gantung yang baru Erpha siapkan... Nampak simple pada garis leher, so I decided to embellish a little bit...

Erpha letak batu (gem), manik dan labuci sikit2 dan campurkan semua tu lebih kurang je... Ada orang suka letak lebih panjang, ke bawah sedikit, so that when you put on the scarf, sulaman manik labuci masih nampak...

Baju Kurung Pesak Gantung, pesaknya ada dua bahagian, satu pesak atas dan satu lagi pesak bawah. Ia menirus di bahagian pinggang kemudian terus melebar ke pesak bawah thus giving the slimming effect kepada si pemakai.

Stress Management ~ Weather forecast by Dodo, the Official

2009-06-19T13:49:00.006+08:00

I was touching up my Sulam Cabut when Dodo came in and climbed up Mak Usu's (He married my lil sis' cat, Bobo [boo-boo]) window. Peeking outside, perhaps checking out the weather, the radio reported that it's gonna be rain today... Glancing at him (his curly tail knocked my agging machine once), I couldn't help but to take pix of him worrying about the weather..

If you notice your pet, animals could predict the weather better than we humans. Hours before rain or thunderstorm, Dodo would normally stay indoor and then I will know about what's the weather gonna be that day.

Sulam Cabut Kipas

Here's a sneak peek of what I was doing while Dodo was peeking. Will post complete process of making this cabut... very soon.. :)

2009-06-10T17:47:00.002+08:00

Selamat Ulang Tahun, Bapak!

Inilah dia, wajah kesayangan isteri,

Inilah dia, wajah kerinduan anak,

Inilah dia, wajah terhormat menantu,

Inilah dia, wajah kelucuan cucu,

Inilah dia, wajah keakraban teman-teman di kedai kopi,

Inilah dia, wajah paling manis,

Paling lucu,

Paling mudah bergurau-senda,

Paling senang disayangi,

Paling selalu dirindui,

Paling dihormati,

Dialah... Bapak Erpha. Selamat Ulang tahun bapak yang ke-66, sihat-sihatlah selalu bapak, bolehlah selalu melawat kebun-kebun dan dusun-dusun buah bapak. :) Happy birthday... 11.06.1943.

Sulam Cabut Sarawak

2009-06-09T12:19:00.010+08:00

Introducing Cabut Fadly... sempena nama my little bro. I came up with this pattern few years back when he wanted Cabut Bunga Tanjung on his Baju Melayu. I thought Cabut Bunga Tanjung (see the pix on the side bar)is quite big on patch pockets so I modified it and inilah hasilnya.

Sulam Cabut Fadly

Me and Sulam Cabut

Cabut Fadly on the sleeve of Baju Melayu

I learnt Sulam Cabut about 17 years ago from an auntie di kampung Erpha. Kalau ada cuti-cuti panjang, Erpha tak lepaskan peluang untuk belajar menjahit dan sulam-menyulam. Bila dah meningkat remaja, Erpha terpaksa tinggalkan hobi Erpha sebentar untuk menyambung pelajaran ke UiTm (ITM back then). Only few years back, Erpha dokumenkan semula sulam2 cabut yang pernah Erpha pelajari supaya senang untuk Erpha rujuk balik.

Terdapat banyak jenis Sulam Cabut ni... dari yang paling simple (Needleweaving) hinggalah yang paling rumit, contohnya Cabut Kipas. Kalau anda berada di Sarawak, terutamanya di Kuching, Sulam Cabut biasanya dapat dilihat pada Baju Kurung mahupun pada Baju Melayu.

Sulam Cabut Fadly on the pockets

Erpha tabik sangat pada kaum wanita dulu-dulu kerana dengan adanya daya pemikiran kreatif mereka maka terhasillah needleart yang amat unik ini. Mungkin sudah tiba masanya untuk generasi masa kini mempelajari semula seni ini atau paling tidak pun menghargai warisan seni nenek moyang mereka.

Buat masa sekarang, Erpha selitkan pattern Sulam Cabut variasi Erpha sendiri and next time Erpha akan tunjukkan contoh-contoh Sulam Cabut yang lain pula. :)

Happy viewing...

2009-05-29T11:04:00.004+08:00

Sewing Time Out

Recently completed a beaded wedding baju, I have this habit doing simple things (but still sewing) before moving to yet another big project...

Here, I show this cute embroidered handbag (not so good when come to monogram) dedicated to my big sis... She wants this bag to keep all her stationery.

Few months back...

Initially, she saw my smocked and beaded small handbag and wanted one too... She requested an embroidery instead with red blood (or almost withering rose?) rose garland.

For you, kak.

2009-05-26T13:16:00.005+08:00

Erpha Update

Hello hello...

It's almost mid of June and that means I'll be very busy with the tempahan Baju Raya...

Anyway, Erpha sedang menyiapkan beberapa pasang baju Melayu dan baju Kurung bersulam Cabut Sarawak.. Nak tau apa itu Cabut Sarawak? Tunggu...

Untuk release tension, here's a pix of a smocked baby dress. The dress is a gift for a celebrity's daughter.

Happy selalu.. :)

Pix of My Dolls...

2009-05-13T13:29:00.011+08:00

Disney in silvery evening gown, complete with a matching wrap. There's beading and sequins detail with the hair undone. He..he..

This empire cut doll gown is made from silver satin dan finished with embroidered tulle (perca kain baju pengantin, he2..) and lavender ribbon.

Wedding bell for Disney! White 6-piece princess cut satin is highlighted with white daisy trimmings. Look even more gorgeous when teamed with tulle veil.

Simply alluring Sidney in a wedding gown adorned with mother-of-pearls. Simple yet sweet.

This lady in Medieval era wears this gown walking by the beach on a hot summer day...hmmm...

Simply fabulous in this gypsy dress with ribbon detail.

Forever a Passion

2009-05-10T05:39:00.029+08:00

This is my version of The Barefoot Cinderella adapted from AS&E Issue 51. This 3-year-old bishop dress was done when I moved back to my hometown this year. As a lefthander, it was not easy to make those bullion roses, following the instructions for a righthander. Alhamdulillah there's some guide for lefthanders in AS&E Issue 61.

It took me quite some time to finish smocking Serenity from AS&E Issue 78- my favourite smocking pattern originally designed by Marian Sitko of AS&E. Each time I start making it (I have done a couple of times), I raced to finish all the embroidery just wanting to see the outcome and vowed not to make this pattern again (so much to complete). But then after some time, I somehow want to make it again just because remembering of the past.

Ada Apa Pada Serenity?

Serenity was first done when I was in the most painful healing process. Only 2 weeks after I underwent an operation, I started sewing with my sewing machine. The stitches on my tummy were opened and I had no choice but to rest. Seeing this, hubby bought my first Australian Smocking & Embroidery (AS&E) magazine, hoping that I could still do things that I love while resting. Not knowing the complexity level, I chose Serenity as my first project.

The idea of learning about smocking has turned out to be so therapeutic for me and because of zero knowledge in smocking, I started buying a number of A - Z books for a crash course and later become important tools in my self-teaching.

That A - Z of Bullions is belongs to Godeng.

Later, my Barbie has her very own smocked gown and when I made another one for my friend's daughther, she was so thrilled and happy. I was of course, very proud and happy too... :)

My Barbie, Audrey in her smocked gown...

My first sampler and a magazine that means so much to me.

The AS&E issues I have...

The rare issues I have. My son Alif Harriz, making his own issue every day. :)

2009-05-02T23:01:00.005+08:00

Beautiful Embroidered Apron ~ Any Girl Would Love to Have This!

This outstanding monogrammed apron, lavishly adorned with beautiful embroidery was done by my little brother, fondly called Godeng by me and hubby.

So one day he called, and asked if I could help him with the sewing of the apron. He bought two shades of the American cotton for a fully lined apron. It took a few days for him to plan and design, and finish the embroidery before sending it to me for the sewing. I got inspired by the sundress design in AS&E magazine for the ruffles detail.

A brief info about the embroiderer:

- He survives in the jungle, and knows about Forestry, that's what he learned in the uni.

- Has a heart of gold - and only his closest people know.

- Taking after bapak (Freelance Surveyor), a tough guy in the field.

- Also a lefthander, like me! :)

Tips to Beautiful Smocking

2009-04-30T22:13:00.025+08:00

The following is simply suggestive hints. Any suggestion (or maybe question), kindly comment. :)
A) Choosing Fabrics

Smocking works best on cottons or other natural fabrics. However, if your fabric is thin or limp, spray starch the fabric and press before pleating. Always press the fabric before rolling the fabric to the pleating rod. Another option is by placing the fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the to-be-pleated fabric section.

Always consider the wearer. Babies don't wear large prints although that flowery motifs really look sweet to you.

B) Pleating

Other than the general rules of pleating, it is best if you stand while you pleat. Always make sure that the fabric is straight prior to pleating. The unsmocked area should be on the left-hand side of the pleater.

C) Thread Colour Choices

Choose the colours of the thread only after you pleat the fabric.

If you use prints, always try to apply not more than 2 or 3 colours. Try applying one 'ugly' colour to combine with other dominant colours. 'Ugly' colour (e.g dark grey or cream on grey fabric) balances out the overall look of the smocking.

In this project, my 'ugly' colour is cream so I could highlight the cast-on roses.

In this project, I decided to apply a cream insert to balance out the 'busy' fabric motifs and to highlight the big cast-on roses.

D) Textures vs Stitching

It is a good idea to use plains as a first project for beginners. Decide if you want to highlight the textures of the stitching or the stitching itself.

In this project, I used the Stranded Rayon thread in white to bring out the textures of the stitching rather than using contrasting colours.

In this project, I pick colours that coordinate with the fabric to bring out the colourwash effect.

E) Blocking and Shaping

After completing the smocking, pull out the pleating threads (exception: the first pleating thread) and block the smocked piece based on the blocking guide you have. Spray mists of water all over or steam iron it 1" above the smocking. When dry, shape it accordingly.

I pinned the centre and the sides on a padded surface and block it according to the blocking guide provided.

I wait for the piece to dry and using the fabric marker, I mark the armholes. When shaping is done, I use narrow zigzag stitches and stitch on the marked area. when this is done, I cut them out accordingly.

The end product for my 3-year-old client. :)

Selamat Datang ke Dunia Anak Patung

2009-04-27T21:47:00.014+08:00

Semua koleksi pakaian dijahit sendiri oleh Erpha. Baju Kurung yang Disney pakai lengkap dengan selendang songket (juga dari perca kain yang sama) dan dihiasi dengan jahitan leher (istilah orang S'wak ~ Simo).

There she is, Disney dengan kebaya batik ketat dan cantik dipakai. Kain jenis ni dari kain kapas, lebih mudah 'handle' dan senang sikit dijahit kerana tidak mudah berbulu... Fesyen rambut anggun by Seungu Qhalila.

Kemudian, dia juga menggayakan blouse ala kelebar dipadankan dengan seluar jeans, nampak 'chic' dan simple... Yang ni dari kain perca Baju Kurung adik...He2.

Then, Disney, Sidney dan Audrey masing-masing menggayakan dress yang comel-comel nih... Untuk 'boa' biru tu, ada dijual di mana-mana kedai jahitan. Sidney mengenakan dress putih stail 'toga' sementara Audrey selesa dengan dress ringkas (perca diambil dari tudung lama, patut la ada detail sulam2 lagi... he2) dengan jaket organza warna sedondon.

More to Come! Sampai jumpa!

Syok Smocking

2009-04-27T20:46:00.017+08:00

Syoknya Smocking!

Home Sweet Home, as worn by Izzah Atirah was photographed and edited by seungu Qhalila.

About Smocking
Smocking is an embroidery technique used to gather fabric so it can stretch thus producing elastic effect. The fabric is exquisitely handsmocked after being meticulously pleated. Embroidery such as bullion roses can enhance the overall look of this very unique needleart. You may find expensive machine-made smocking gowns in certain boutiques but no machine-worked can compare the beauty and the complexity of a lovingly handsmocked dress or outfit for someone you love.

My niece, Izzah Atirah in a full bodice smocked dress. The dress is adorned with bullion roses and daisies and scattered with tiny bullion rosebuds.

Her recent smocked dress, adapted from AS&E Issue 67, 'Home Sweet Home'. I embroidered some tiny yellow bullion rose buds on this fully smocked dress in coco.